Flightfin Switch (aka Pinout on Xr Footpad Connector)

@Swinefeaster Can confirm the image is correct, used the same pins when checking my XR a while back.

Connecting the left/right to the centre ground pin will trigger the footpad.
Left and Right should have 3.3v present.

@Swinefeaster said in Pinout on Xr Footpad Connector:

can i just wire the left and right and additional switch all together to have the footpad fully triggered whenever one of them in engaged?

Can do, it's how I tested my Pint when I didn't have a footpad.

I wired in an old arcade button (because it was the only momentary switch I had laying around). Funnily enough it's how Kyle first got the early prototypes going too.

Linky : https://cargocollective.com/kdoerksen/Onewheel

However you want to have both footpad and the switch so I recommend getting a 2P1T switch (2 Pole 1 Throw, also known as DPST or Double Pole Single Throw) so that when the switch is connected the L and R pads don't end up connected via the terminals and remain isolated. Took a while but below illustrates the wiring for such a setup.

If you just use a single throw switch then the L and R pins would be connected at the switch terminal meaning when one activates it would activate the other, in turn causing both pads to become one which I imagine isn't ideal. Might be hard to picture it so here's what that would look like.

@Swinefeaster Oh well in that case it's that simple then :) A simple momentary switch with L and R connected to one terminal would combine them as a single pad and in turn making the Posisensor redundant.

If you want to retain the ability to switch between the dual pads or large single pad then you'd want the 2P1T switch and the Posisensor.

For mounting I guess you could drill a hole through the fin on the underside and then slot in the momentary switch with the complete travel of the switch being outside the bounds of the fin wit all the electrical connections safely tucked inside the hole.

@Swinefeaster That's dope, keep us updated! :)

@Swinefeaster No joy boring out a hole in a fin to mount the button?

Another idea, mount the button to the side of the fender and rely on your ankle pressing up against the fender to press the button. Maybe a 3D printed or wooden mount. Can use the slot on the fender to mount it and feed the cables through too.

Not sure if that was a great description, here's a barely usable sketch of what that might look like.

As an added bonus you know as long as you're squeezing the fender you're making good contact with the button.

@Swinefeaster Clean, I love it! Wanna see you catching some air now :)

@Swinefeaster This has been a great post to follow, seeing other riders chime in with useful info and seeing your idea/innovation come to life and provide you with exactly what you were looking for. Kudos!

Great skills!
I wonder if this wheel spinning in the opposite direction airborne on 3rd vid gives any advantage by chance on landing balance. Or is it just a coincidence that nose drops more on first two? On third nose-tail height remains so pleasantly well - making it really rad looking jump.

@Swinefeaster super cool! looks like a comfy landing. i'd maybe rub some of those small wear surfaces with a tiny dab of lithium grease on a small rag to see if i could clean up that bit of spring squeak. it's water resistant too just in case u haven't already.

Can anyone advise on what kind of wire to get for the switch? Gauge and type? I guess the same as is used in the footpad connector. Planning to make another for the pint. I was cannibalizing some other switches I had earlier, and I'll have to buy some. Thanks

@Swinefeaster will you go for full-hidden or semi-bare solution this time?
Silicone coating for sake of best maneuverability for full-hid. If wires stay outside at some part - PTFE insulated SPC wires for going nuts with perfection. -Just kiddin`

You`ll probably be well off with 15AWG 2-core silicone cable + additionally thermal shrink sleeve onto open areas for better abrasion resistance.
(The link was random first that came forth.)

@Sirgu thanks for the reply. i'm not sure if you consider my xr solution full-hidden or semi-bare. i will do something very similar for the pint, except it uses a stock fender, so i will have to run the switch wire inside the fender. i used a thicker more durable speaker wire for that part last time. ideally i'd like to use some kind of waterproof 2-pin connector that can be disconnected if i have to service the onewheel, but i haven't found one yet that looks small enough. i'll have a better idea when i take the pint apart again to see how much room there is.

ali express takes FOREVER to ship, and i'd like some color options to match the different wires. i'm assuming this would work too? 16 gauge ok?
https://www.amazon.com/Fermerry-Stranded-Electrical-Silicone-Cables/dp/B089CPH72F

@Swinefeaster said :

... if you consider my xr solution full-hidden or semi-bare. ...

Till joints are covered and wires take dust storm on inner side of half-/full-fender I'd call it semi-bare. :}
But it's not entirely important .. sry for surplus information.

... but i haven't found one yet that looks small enough. ...

You might wanna give a glance at Amphenol ePower-Lite series or their FLH mini series. For inspirational purpose first. Once you've found small connector up to your needs, take it's part no. and go forth with research on vendors/e-stores up to your liking.

In either ways I'd leave that connector OUT of Pint's BMS housing, no matter how much room there is. Therefore you leave yourself this option for going through additional waterproofing if ever you find a need for it. Secondly, it's more handy to remove it for servicing without inevitable need to open housing. Way too obvious to write it down, right?

... 16 gauge ok?

Probably everything form 18 to 15 will do.

thanks, that's great. i definitely never said i was going to put it into the BMS housing (the one with the clear plastic cover and torx screws). just hoping to fit the connector somewhere in the fin extender or in the area where the foot pad connector connects to the bms.

i think i might grab these
https://www.amazon.com/MUYI-Waterproof-Electrical-Connector-Terminals/dp/B014IU2EE2